Monday, May 16, 2022

There will be blood, part one, or LOL.


 After my fitful night being kept awake by the Indian Cuckoo, I got up around 4 AM and wandered the grounds of the camp. I was excited to see a Red-vented Bulbul feeding young. There were a couple of phylloscopus warblers, Greenish and Dusky, which I tried to be excited about, but that was in vain. The Indian Cuckoo was STILL calling. I heard some other bird song and tracked down a couple of Oriental Magpie-robins. They have an amazing repertoire of songs!

We were only staying at the camp one night, so I threw my stuff in my suitcase and grabbed my leech socks. The rest of the group was waiting for me, so I was rushing. I put on my leech socks, but they were a little uncomfortable, as I had on heavy wool socks. I didn't want to dig around in my suitcase looking for lighter weight socks, so I decided to forego the leech socks. After all I hadn't needed them the previous morning. (Can you guess what is coming?) I ran out to the car and joined our group.


We stopped at the headquarters to get our entrance permit and pick up the forest guard. As always, this took a bit of time. While we were waiting several Indian dogs came up and we made friends with them. All of the dogs I met in India were incredibly sweet. Mike made over them and they about turned themselves inside out with happiness. After the guard joined us and we drove down to the river the dogs followed us all the way there. If I were to get a dog, I would definitely want one of these! Almost every dog we saw in Assam looked alike, very similar to Basenjis. Coat colors varied, but most were tan or red. Some of them were black and tan. They are medium size dogs with short coats, pricked ears, and tightly curled tails. They always look like they are smiling. I was surprised at how healthy all the street dogs looked.


When we got to the river our canoe was waiting. Anyone who knows me well knows that I have very poor balance, and am always afraid of falling. The thought of getting into one of these canoes was daunting, but I was able to do it. I worked my way back to the very narrow board seat and bent my rickety knees to sit down. I promptly went over the board and landed on my ass on the floor of the canoe. Mike and Dorjee hauled me up and I planted myself on the seat, a little bit embarrassed.


We crossed the river and walked through the grasses on the edge. A Golden-headed Cisticola sang, and Bengal Bushlarks were displaying. Our armed guard walked in front of us. This was the first time I had ever birded with an armed guard! Most people would think the danger would be tigers, but actually elephants are much more likely to kill you. The guards are also there to protect the animals against poachers. 


We entered the woods and I was determined to not look at butterflies, even though they were everywhere. You really have to chose if you are going to concentrate on birding or butterflying. We walked the forest path heading to the pond where we might see White-winged Duck. The birding was great and we were delighted to see a Black Giant Squirrel, a species we saw in Thailand. Who doesn't love a giant squirrel?

As we approached the pond where the White-winged Ducks are seen I felt something on my foot. I looked down and saw something brown and squishy looking where my shoe met my ankle, a leech. I decided to ignore it, knowing from experience in Australia that it would drop off when it was full. I pressed ahead with the group. We turned off of the main path and then walked a path I found a bit precarious on a mud bank. The ducks were no where to be seen, but we got great looks at Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, which were building a nest. There was some movement at the far end of the pond and two Guars, very large wild cows, came in to drink. The ducks did not show, but the Guars were a great consolation prize. I pulled off several more leeches.



We headed back to the camp to get ready to go north into Arunachal Pradesh. I found even more leeches. I had at least ten bites, thus the subtitle to this post,  LOL = Lots of Leeches. When I pulled off my socks I was covered in blood. I put some antibiotic cream and slapped on a bunch of band-aids. A few years prior I would have flipped out, but this time I just felt like they were a bit of a hassle. The bleeding was no fun, but they didn't hurt. The worst part is pulling them off, as they are really squishy feeling. 

We arrived on the border of Arunachal Pradesh and Dorjee and the driver went into an office to get our permits to enter. This province requires special permission to enter, as there have been border conflicts with China for years. We had a bit of tension before the trip when the government had quit issuing permits. While they were hashing out the bureaucratic details, Mike and Willie ran into a "wine shop" to get some libations to help us get through the cold evenings. I am not sure why they are called wine shops, as they don't have wine. They also didn't have gin. (Hello! Have they not heard of Bombay Sapphire?) We had to settle for whisky. Dorjee and the driver finally returned and the gate opened for us to enter.

Our first destination in Arunachal Pradesh was Dirang, where we stayed for four nights. We birded along the Sessa River, where we had a gorgeous Red-headed Trogon. We had seen this bird in Thailand, but you can't possibly see too many trogons. We picked up a few river birds, like Plumbeous  and White-capped Redstarts. It was a beautiful drive. We arrived at our hotel, the Mandela, in Dirang. We were on the fourth floor. The elevator music was classic Kenny G! The food at the restaurant was really nice. We had a very early start the next morning, going up to Sela Pass, so we made it an early night.

Photos for the day: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sngcanary/albums/72177720299008122

Bird list:

1. Indian Spot-billed Duck

2. Kalij Pheasant

3. Red Junglefowl

4. Rock Pigeon (feral)

5. Oriental Turtle-dove

6. Spotted Dove

7. Green Imperial Pigeon

8. Greater Coucal

9. Asian Koel

10. Square-tailed Drongo-cuckoo

11. Large Hawk-cuckoo

12. Indian Cuckoo

13. White-breasted Waterhen

14. River Lapwing *

15. Red-wattled Lapwing

16. Little Ringed Plover

17. Common Sandpiper

18. Little Egret

19. Cattle Egret

20. Striated Heron

21. Crested Serpent-eagle

22. Black Kite

23. Asian Barred Owlet

24,. Spotted Owlet

25. Red-headed Trogon

26. Wreathed Hornbill

27. Common Kingfisher

28. Ruddy Kingfisher *

29. White-throated Kingfisher

30. Pied Kingfisher

31. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater

32. Indochinese Roller

33. Dollarbird

34. Great Barbet

35. Lineated Barbet

36. Blue-throated Barbet

37. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker

38. Lesser Yellownape

39. Rose-ringed Parakeet

40, Red-breasted Parakeet

41. Vernal Hanging Parrot

42. Scarlet Minivet

43. Rosy Minivet *

44. Black-hooded Oriole

45. Large Woodshrike

46. Common Iora

47. Ashy Drongo

48. Gray-backed Shrike

49. Large-billed Crow

50. Cinerous Tit

51. Bengal Bushlark

52. Common Tailorbird

53. Golden-headed Cisticola

54. Gray-throated Martin

55. Red-vented Bulbul

56. Red-whiskered Bulbul

57. Dusky Warbler

58. Greenish Warbler

59. Pin-striped Tit-babbler

60. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch *

61. Chestnut-tailed Starling

62. Common Myna

63. Jungle Myna

64. Great Myna

65. Oriental Magpie-robin

66. Blue-whistling Thrush

67. Plumbeous Redstart *

68. White-capped Redstart

69. Blue-capped Rockthrush *

70.Siberian Stonechat

71. Golden-fronted Leafbird

72. Eurasian Tree-sparrow

73. Paddyfield Pipitb

Life birds marked with *

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