Brazil Day 13 and 14. Winding Things Up

I felt a real sense of sadness as we woke for our last day of birding in Brazil. We were taking a boat back the road to be picked up that afternoon. In some ways it felt like we had been there for a very long time, much longer than two weeks. Those of you reading my blog probably feel the same! We had been almost totally without outside communication for the entire trip, other than a brief period when I was able to get online at the Floresta Amazonica. It was wonderful to be able to forget the economic situation and all of that mess. I didn't even know the latest on Brittany Spears! (Thank goodness)

We put the sadness behind us and took off down the river for the Brazil Nut Trail. The weather was a bit threatening, but we had our rain jackets and had become acclimated to birding in the usually light morning rains. One of the first birds we heard had a rich beautiful complicated song. It was the kind of bird song that stops you dead in your tracks. It was a Southern-nightingale Wren. Brad got out the I-pod and again demonstrated his skill. It took quite a while, but we finally got decent looks at it. He then tried to draw in a Musician Wren, another amazing singer, but with no luck.

A Rufous-breasted Hermits checked us out. A Tapajos Hermit also gave us the once over. Hermits are rather plain colored hummingbirds with long decurved bills. We had seen several different species on this trip. The rain seemed to be getting heavier and the bird activity lighter. We pushed on.

We came to the end of the trail, where there is one of the biggest trees I have ever seen, a massive Brazil Nut Tree. (Maybe this is why the trail is called the Brazil Nut Trail!) We stood under the tree as the rain got heavier. The thick canopy was providing a pretty good shelter. We noticed our boat pilot Algirio talking to Brad in a rather earnest manner. Brad turned and said "Lets go back to the boat, we are going to wait out the rain at a farm on the island". We had visited this island earlier in the trip. We were a bit puzzled, as we thought we were fine under the tree. Brad explained that Algirio told him that it was the season that the Brazil Nuts fall from the trees. We were more than happy to move, as a hit on the head from a Brazil Nut could be fatal. I mean, how embarrassing would that be for Martin, to come home and explain that I had been killed by being hit on the head with a Brazil Nut! (If you have not read my earlier blogs I explain what Brazil Nuts look like in Day 8)

We motored up river to the island where a small farm house stood near a Cashew orchard. We got out and walked up to the house, where the residents, who knew Brad and Algirio well, offered us small cups of a wonderful hot sweet coffee. We sat under the porch waiting for the rain to slow. There were some chickens which I watched for a while. At least they were birds! Finally the sky lightened and the rain slowed to a drizzle. A few birds flitted in the Cashew trees, most the ever present Silver-beaked and Palm Tanagers. Tropical Kingbirds were flying from snag to snag. We could hear a Cinnamon Attila calling.

We decided to head back to the river and take a slow trip back to the lodge. We said goodbye to our hosts and got back into the boat. The rain was almost over and it was really pleasant. The regular river birds were in good numbers, with Green Ibis, a Rufescent Tiger-heron, a Razor-billed Currasow, Neotropical Cormorants and Anhingas either flying over or feeding on the banks. White-winged and Band-breasted Swallows zipped by, low over the water. From time to time the scent of blooming flowers was almost overwhelming. It truly is a very sensual place.

As we were skirting the river bank Brad jumped to attention and told Algirio to stop and go back. He had heard a call that needed to be checked. We were thrilled to see a female Crimson Topaz, the "star" hummingbird of Rio Azul! This species had never been documented at Cristalino. She gave us good looks and Martin was able to photograph her. She made dealing with the bad weather totally worth while! A flock of Scarlet-winged Parrotlets flew by and we were more than content. We arrived back at the lodge a bit earlier than expected, but we still had packing to do, so that was fine.

After we got our gear together Martin and I wandered around the lodge clearings. Martin was still keen to find more dragonflies and I just wanted to drink in every last drop of Cristalino. Martin got out the door of the cabana a few minutes before me. When I went outside I heard some familiar sounding call notes. I spotted a Masked Tanager, one of my favorite tangaras, in a tree right next to the porch. There were several other birds with him, but unfortunately just as I saw the flock they flew deeper into the woods, where I could not follow. Brad had told us that sometimes mixed flocks worked the trees in the clearings, so I hoped they would return to an area where I could see them.

I walked down towards the dining room and saw Martin. The flock had circled around and he was watching a xenops which was a different species than the Plain Xenops that we had seen several times. Martin got off several pictures before it flew off. From the photos he was able to confirm that it was a Slender-billed Xenops, a new bird for both of us! More tanagers moved through, including a White-shouldered Tanager, which was new for the trip. Mixed flocks are always exciting. You never know what you are going to see! We heard the double bell that they ring at the dining room announcing meals, so we walked up. The minister of tourism was still there, so the food was even better than usual.

After lunch a group of people, including the tourism minister left the lodge. We were due to be picked up at the road after them, at 330PM. Brad was a bit uneasy, as the phone was down at Cristalino and had been for 4 days. He was concerned that there might be some confusion about when we were to be picked up. He told one of the employees of the lodge, who was leaving with the minister, to let them know at the Floresta Amazonica that we needed picking up when she got there. Thank goodness he did this!

At about 230PM we decided to go ahead and go down river to the pick up point, as we could bird that area for a little while. Our plan was to stop on the way back to Alta Floresta for a little birding before dark at a place with Point-tailed Palm-creeper, which we both really wanted to see. We got to the landing and it started to rain again. Our luggage was covered with plastic and there was a small shelter, like at a bus stop, where we sat. The expected pick up time came and went. We started to feel a bit nervous. We debated about what to do. The phone was still dead at the lodge, so going back would do no good. Algirio took the boat across the river to where the head guide was leading a group. He told him that we should just wait, so we did.

The rain had stopped so we walked up and down the road and did some birding. Brad was very happy to show us a Short-tailed Pygmy-tyrant, which is thought by some to be the smallest passerine in the world. (It depends on how you measure the bird) An adult was feeding a begging juvenile, which inspired a sense of "Oh how cute!", even though I constantly say birding isn't cute. Finally we heard a distant truck approaching. We were saved! The driver was only two hours late. He should have left Alta Floresta long before the minister and his group got back there. So, when they arrived and the mistake was discovered it took some time to recover.

We stopped at the grove with the palm-creepers, but it was dusk and there was no sign of them. We did see many Burrowing Owls and Smooth-billed Anis along the way. The seem well adapted to the cleared pasture land. We got back into town and were dropped off at the hotel. Brad went home and got Jessica, his wife, and they came back to take us out for Brazilian pizza. We drove into the center of Alta Floresta and it was so weird to see lit Christmas decorations in that tropical atmosphere. Snow men and pine trees seem a bit out of place!

We were delighted to find all of the Ivani and all of her kids from Rio Azul at the pizza place. They were staying in town and Brad invited them to join us. They told us that they would really miss us. I was so touched! The food was good and the company was even better. I almost cried when we parted. By the way, the only thing Brazilian pizza and American pizza have in common is the crust. It was so different, but just as good.

We had an early start the next morning. Our flight to Sao Paolo was in three legs. It was supposed to depart at 530AM, so we left the hotel at 430AM after more chocolate cake for breakfast. We noticed it seemed a bit foggy, but not too bad. The plane was packed. I noticed three nuns sitting right behind us. I whispered to Martin "Oh, oh. We are in trouble now. In every movie I have ever seen with a nun on a plane things always go very badly..." These words came back to haunt us.

We waited and waited and waited. The fog seemed thicker. They announced over the speaker that we were delayed because of fog. I watched out the window, keeping track of a tree that I could barely make out in the mist. I kept checking it, to see if the fog was getting any better. As that tree became more visible, I found another one further out, and then another. I kept saying to Martin that it didn't seem that bad. He reminded me that the plane could probably take off, but if something went wrong it might be too thick for it to land again. I settled down. Almost two hours later we taxied out and took off.

We landed in Cuiaba and about half the people got off, including two of the nuns. We hoped that the plane would be a bit less crowded on the next leg. We were wrong. They boarded at least as many people. We took off without any problems and flew on to Brasilia. We landed and repeated the same unboarding and boarding, with things being just as crowded. The one nun remained in the seat behind us. We started our last leg on to Sao Paolo, a bit late, but some we had made up some of the time lost to the fog.

One of the flight attendants announced in both Portuguese and English that we were approaching Sao Paolo. I was watching out the window with great interest. We didn't appear to be getting any lower. I thought I saw some forest that I had seen before. We flew and flew. Then the pilot came on and made an annoucement in Portuguese only. I thought he probably was saying we would land in 15 minutes or something like that. We flew on, still not descending. I was certain that we were circling. Then he made another announcement in Portuguese. The passengers all seemed to be concerned and were talking among themselves. It was a very disconcerting feeling to have no idea what was happening. We couldn't ask the flight attendants, as they were strapped in for landing. Still the plane circled.

Martin said he was worried. There seemed to be a lot of high cumulus clouds building into thunderheads. He thought we might be diverted to another airport. Our flight back to Dallas left at midnight. We had time, but if we were at another airport.... Then we started wondering if there was something wrong with the plane and they were circling to burn off fuel. I remembered the smart aleck remark about nuns on the plane and couldn't help but feel a bit queasy. Finally Martin asked if anyone could speak English. A very nice young woman that had gotten on the plane in Brasilia said that she did. She explained that there was no place to park the plane in Sao Paolo, so we were waiting. We felt a huge sense of relief. Shortly after that we finally did descend. The same young woman helped us find our luggage and the bus we needed to take to the other airport. It was a huge relief!

We had flown into one of the smaller airports in Sao Paolo, so we had to get across town. Brad had suggested the airport bus. It was great! It was roomier than the plane had been and didn't circle over and over. We even got a few birds from the bus. My last life bird for Brazil was a Pinnated Bittern in a wet land we drove through. I also picked up Whistling Heron. We got to the main airport, took a day room at an in airport hotel, got three hours sleep and hopped the plane home.

Martin and I both said that this was our best birding trip ever! Having Brad as a guide freed Martin to enjoy the birds and bugs. He is a great guide, but its so much work. We are ready to go back. If you have any questions about our trip or are interested in setting something like this up for yourself, please email me! Sngcanary@yahoo.com I hope you enjoyed reading this half as much as I enjoyed writing it!

List for both days
Whistling Heron
Pinnated Bittern
Black Vulture
Campo Flicker
Shiny Cowbird
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Muscovy Duck
Brazilian Teal
Capped Heron
Striated Heron
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Green Ibis
Black Vulture
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Plumbeous Kite
Black Caracara
Bat Falcon
Razor-billed Curassow
Bare-faced Curassow
Sungrebe
Southern Lapwing
Pale-vented Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Gray-fronted Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Red-bellied Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Crimson-bellied Parakeet
Painted Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet
Blue-headed Parrot
Orange-winged Parrot
Smooth-billed Ani
Burrowing Owl
Blackish Nightjar
Ladder-tailed Nightjar
Gray-rumped Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Crimson Topaz
Black-eared Fairy
Long-billed Starthroat
Collared Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Paradise Jacamar
Black-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Lettered Aracari
Red-necked Aracari
Channel-billed Toucan
Bar-breasted Piculet
Lineated Woodpecker
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Spix's Woodcreeper
Curve-billed Scythebill
Slender-billed Xenops
Great Antshrike
Pygmy Antwren
Long-winged Antwren
Gray Antwren
Band-tailed Antbird
Scale-backed Antbird
Screaming Piha
Spangled Cotinga
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
Amazonian Umbrellabird
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Forest Elaenia
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant
Drab Water-Tyrant
Cattle Tyrant
Cinnamon Attila
Short-crested Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Gray-chested Greenlet
Black-capped Donacobius
Buff-breasted Wren
House Wren
Scaly-breasted Wren
White-winged Swallow
Purple Martin
Gray-breasted Martin
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Red-capped Cardinal
Bananaquit
Flame-crested Tanager
White-shouldered Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Turquoise Tanager
Paradise Tanager
Masked Tanager
Yellow-bellied Dacnis
Blue Dacnis
Blue-black Grassquit
Yellow-rumped Cacique

Brazil Day 12, Back up the Tower.

We got to sleep in again, so after our 5:00 AM breakfast we set out on the Rocky Trail, which led to the tower. Unfortunately it was raining. Luckily it wasn't pouring, but it was enough to subdue our spirits a bit. Also I wasn't exactly excited to do that 50 meter climb, as my knees were in bad shape.

We made a detour by the salt lick. At first we thought nothing was there. Then we saw them, more Dark-winged Trumpeters! We froze and they slowly worked their was across the clearing. We couldn't believe our luck. Another birder at the lodge had been trying to see trumpeters for three weeks with no luck. We moved on to the tower, taking a round about trail where we added several antbirds.

We reached the tower and it was still raining a little. We decided to bird the second platform, as the top platform provided a roof. When we got up there we could hear voices and realized there were other people up above us. Only a limited number of people were allowed on the tower at one time. With the three of us and the three of them we had pretty much reached the limit. We called up our hellos and continued birding.

The rain was not helping visibility. There was very little bird activity. Martin spotted a dark bird perched on the top of a tree waaaaayyyy out on the horizon. It was difficult to make out any detail. We got the scope, but it only made it a bigger fuzzy object instead of a little fuzzy object. We thought initially that it was a hawk, but something didn't seem right. The rain lifted slightly and we could see a bit more detail. Instead of looking black the bird looked brown and there was a glint of white on the wing. Martin started questioning the hawk ID. Then the brown turned to deep maroon. It wasn't a hawk at all, but a Pompadour Continga! As the light got brighter the color got deeper. It is a gorgeous bird that Martin and I had both been aching to see.

Brad decided to go up on top to see what the other group was seeing. The birding on the second level was even slower than it had been on our earlier visit to the tower. We could hear Brad talking to Roger, the British birder who was at the lodge, his translator, and the guide. Finally Martin and I decided to go up. When we got up on top we found out that they had been looking at a juvenile Harpy Eagle! We had just missed it. If we had not seen the Harpys at Alta Floresta it would have been just a little devastating. But we were satisified with the Continga, which was still perching up.

Finally the sun came out, the bees came back and it got a little bit steamy. I spotted a Yellow-throated Woodpecker below us. Then a Red-stained Woodpecker flew in. Some dacnis played in the crown of a tree next to the tower. A Flame-crested Tanager joined the group, along with a Tooth-billed Wren and several tyrannulets. Then Brad spied a Red-billed Pied Tanager in a tree off of the other side of the tower. It was joined by a singing Slate-colored Grosbeak. The entire time we were hearing Screaming Pihas.

I can't tell you how often during the trip I asked Brad "What's that call?" And most of the time he would answer "A Screaming Piha". I finally quit asking, but then Martin did! Screaming Pihas have a lot of vocalizations. It sounds to me like they say "oh well, Oh Well!, OH WELL!!" and then they go off like our neighbors over sensitive car alarm does at 3:00AM. Its a really amazing sound. And they do it all the time.

The heat and bees were getting old and we were not seeing any birds, so we went down. We walked a circuitous route back to the lodge. I think my favorite bird that we got was a Ringed Ant Pippit. This bird looks like one of our Ovenbirds, bopping along on the forest floor. It has a great call, which you hear long before you see him. We heard monkeys overhead, White-nosed Bearded Saki Monkeys. We got back, had our lunch and then siesta.

I did rest for quite awhile, but decided to do a short walk before our last afternoon river trip. I was walking between the cabana clearing and the lodge when I heard a huge racket. Up above me a big troop of the Saki monkeys were overhead. There was a mother with a baby on her back. A few youngsters were running along side the adults. They were feeding on fruit in the tree tops. A few stopped and looked at me, screaming a high pitched cry. I could see that they would be a lot happier when I was gone.

As I mentioned we were doing our last afternoon river ride. We went down stream to a trail where we could possibly see Crypic Forest Falcon, a bird that was only recently discovered. Its very similar to Barred Forest Falcon, and was originally considered conspecific with it. We had heard one earlier in the week and Brad knew they sometimes hung out in an area of the woods we were entering. We got to a clearing and Brad played the tape. The falcon called back! He was sitting deep in a wooded area and was totally invisible. I was standing frozen, not wanting to frighten it off. A bird flew over, which I didn't see. Then a falcon called from behind us. The original bird kept calling. This went on for quite some time. Then the second bird flew over and I missed that one too! I was a little frustrated.

It had started to get dark so we decided to head back. When we were out on the river at dusk the previous times Brad had been playing a tape of a Zig-zag Heron. This tiny heron has the most amazing call. It reminded me of the baritone horn I played in high school. Very little was known about this heron until recent times. It was almost mythical. Suddenly one answered! It flew in close, but was still difficult to see. Then we saw it fly across the river. We jumped in the boat and went to the other side. The bird perched nicely for us, sitting on a branch over the water. Our pilot was incredibly patient, manuevering the boat so Martin could get photos. We were very happy!

When we got back there was a candle light dinner in the outdoor pavillion. The minister of tourism was at the lodge with his wife, so the staff was going all out! We started the meal with a bowl of Piranha soup, which was quite good. After dinner we headed back to the cabana to pack for the start of our trip home the following day.

Day List
Gray Tinamou
Cinereous Tinamou
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Muscovy Duck
Capped Heron
Zigzag Heron
King Vulture
Double-toothed Kite
Plumbeous Kite
Cryptic Forest-Falcon - Heard
Bat Falcon
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Bare-faced Curassow
Plumbeous Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
Orange-cheeked Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Short-tailed Nighthawk
Blackish Nightjar
Ladder-tailed Nightjar
Gray-rumped Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Long-tailed Hermit
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Black-eared Fairy
Violaceous Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Bronzy Jacamar
White-necked Puffbird
Brown-banded Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Red-necked Aracari
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Channel-billed Toucan
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Red-stained Woodpecker
White-throated Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Long-tailed Woodcreeper
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Spix's Woodcreeper
Lineated Woodcreeper
Speckled Spinetail
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner
Plain Xenops
Pygmy Antwren
Sclater's Antwren
Plain-throated Antwren
Long-winged Antwren
Gray Antwren
Spot-backed Antwren
Rufous-winged Antwren
Gray Antbird
Screaming Piha
Spangled Cotinga
Pompadour Cotinga
Red-headed Manakin
Wing-barred Manakin
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
Ringed Antpipit
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Large-headed Flatbill
Rufous-tailed Flatbill
Yellow-margined Flycatcher
Drab Water-Tyrant
Cinnamon Attila
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Masked Tityra
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
Gray-chested Greenlet
Dusky-capped Greenlet
Tawny-crowned Greenlet
Hauxwell's Thrush
Tooth-billed Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Rose-breasted Chat
Red-capped Cardinal
Red-billed Pied Tanager
Flame-crested Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Black-faced Dacnis
Blue Dacnis
Purple Honeycreeper
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Blue-black Grosbeak
Amazonian Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Epaulet Oriole

Brazil Day 11, He's going to take your I-pod!

Brad was kind and let us sleep in, with breakfast at 5:00AM! We felt like total slackers. We took the boat across the river to a new trail, at least new for us. This was to be the morning of the Furnariidae, aka ovenbirds. These are the true ovenbirds, not the misnamed warbler that we see in the states. This family contains horneros, spinetails, woodhaunters, foliage-gleaners, leaf-tossers and xenops, among other birds. They are mostly brown. They can be tough to see and I love them!

We had seen various furnarids in the past days, but we scored nicely on this morning. We had a couple of foliage-gleaners, Rufous-tailed and Rufous-rumped, a Striped Woodhaunter and two Leaf-tossers, Short-billed and Black-tailed. Leaf-tossers seemed particularly difficult to see. They were on the forest floor, moving very quietly, just flipping leaves over. In the undergrowth it was hard to make them out.

We heard several species of manakins, but only saw one, Wing-barred Piprites. (Are these not some of the best bird names ever?) We ran into a mixed flocked. One bird in particular stumped Martin and me for a few minutes. It was a fairly dark brown flycatcher with a pale throat and a huge crest, held to the back of the head. There was a flash of orange in the crest. It has almost a hammer-head look. Brad never saw it. After puzzling over it for a few minutes, Martin realized what it was, an Amazonian Royal Flycatcher! This is a great looking bird. When it spreads its crest, which is a very rare event, it goes side to side, like the hat Napolean wore.

The weather was becoming a bit threatening so we headed back to the lodge. We birded the lodge area until lunch, seeing the usual Silver-beaked, Palm and Blue-and-gray Tanagers. After lunch I tried to be a bit wiser with my siesta time, after the bad experience of the day before. I did lay down for a bit, but it was almost impossible to rest, thinking about what I was missing! I finally got up and decided to go for a short walk. For some reason that I can not remember, I did not have either my binoculars or my camera. Well, of course, I found a good bird. A Bare-faced Currasow jumped out of a tree over my head. He strolled down the path at a leisurely pace. I could have taken killer photos! Arrgghhh! I was happy to see him anyway, as I had been extremely jealous that Martin had seen him the day before.

At 3:30 PM we headed back to the boat launch. We were going up river to the research island. This large island has dormitories where different students and scientists live while exploring the flora and fauna of Cristalino. Its quite large and has some very interesting habitat. The river floods every year during the rainy season. The island is underwater most years during this time. The vegetation is a bit stunted and is quite different.

We were looking for Amazonian Antpitta. I have mentioned antpittas in previous trip reports, but for any new readers, I will review. These stubby tailed long-legged birds look like overgrown chicks. They are extremely stealthy and have a well earned reputation for being hard to see. We worked our way down the island listening for the birds call.

We came to an interesting area, a natural lagoon with a salt lick. Unfortunately the lagoon was close to being dried up. It did still contain a couple of water birds, an adult Rufescent Tiger-heron and a Capped Heron, one of the prettiest herons I have ever seen. Martin was more than happy to see a large number of dragonflies circling the little water that was left. Then we heard it, the antpitta.

Of course the bird was calling from an incredibly thick twist of vines and branches. This tangle was almost impossible to see into. Brad got out his I-pod and started playing the call. The antpitta became a bit agitated and we could tell it was moving around in the thicket, but it wasn't coming out. Brad searched and searched the thicket and finally found a place where we could see in, a bit of a clearing under the overhanging vines. He lay down on his belly and shimmied under the vines. He put his rain jacket on the ground and laid the I-pod, still playing the call on a loop, on top of it. He quickly and silently slid out, remaining on his belly.

Martin and I came up behind Brad, staying as still and quiet as possible. Suddenly I saw the antpitta jump up on a log next to the I-pod. He was still calling away. He looked down at the I-pod and I seriously thought he was going to grab it and run. He studied it for a second or two and then flew up into the brush above it. He was still visible and Martin got a few pictures. Finally the bird realized we were there and took off. We felt totally victorious.

Leaving the clearing we headed back to the river for some after dark water birding (and batting!) As much as fun as birding the river during the day is, its even more fun at night. Brad spot lighted the bank. Most of the eye shine was from Spectacled Caiman, sliding into the water as we disturbed them. Long-nosed Bats flushed up from the snags as we passed. A Greater Bulldog Bat, a type of fishing bat, flew in front of the boat. As Brad scanned with the light, it looked like it was snowing there were so many insects in the air. We got great looks at a Ladder-tailed Nightjar perching on a branch hanging over the water. A Paca, a large rodent that Brad said, perhaps teasing, was the best tasting animal in South America, was drinking from the river. I was disappointed when we got to the lodge!

Day List
Cinereous Tinamou
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Muscovy Duck
Capped Heron
Striated Heron
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Green Ibis
Black Vulture
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Double-toothed Kite
Plumbeous Kite
Black Caracara
Red-throated Caracara
Bat Falcon
Spix's Guan
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Bare-faced Currosaw
Sunbittern
Dark-winged Trumpeter
Pale-vented Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
White-tipped Dove
Gray-fronted Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Mealy Parrot
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl
Blackish Nightjar
Ladder-tailed Nightjar
Gray-rumped Swift
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Black-tailed Trogon
Collared Trogon
Violaceous Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Paradise Jacamar
Black-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Channel-billed Toucan
Bar-breasted Piculet
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Red-stained Woodpecker
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Spot-throated Woodcreeper
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Spix's Woodcreeper
Lineated Woodcreeper
Striped Woodhaunter
Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner
Short-billed Leaftosser
Black-tailed Leaftosser
Glossy Antshrike
White-shouldered Antshrike
Plain-winged Antshrike
Amazonian Antshrike
Cinereous Antshrike
Pygmy Antwren
Sclater's Antwren
Plain-throated Antwren
Long-winged Antwren
Gray Antwren
Gray Antbird
Black-faced Antbird
Black-throated Antbird
Dot-backed Antbird
Amazonian Antpitta
Screaming Piha
Band-tailed Manakin
Red-headed Manakin
Fiery-capped Manakin
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Wing-barred Manakin
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
Forest Elaenia
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Yellow-margined Flycatcher
Royal Flycatcher
Rufous-tailed Attila
Tropical Kingbird
Lesser Kiskadee
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Masked Tityra
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
Dusky-capped Greenlet
Thrush-like Wren
Tooth-billed Wren
Buff-breasted Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
Brown-chested Martin
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Rose-breasted Chat
Silver-beaked Tanager
Sayaca Tanager
Palm Tanager
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Bay-headed Tanager
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Buff-throated Saltator
Amazonian Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique

Brazil Day 10, Sitting in the Leaf Litter

Breakfast really should be eaten later than 4:30AM! These early hours were kind of taking a toll. We dragged into the dining room about 10 minutes late, after several false starts. After Martin made one more trip back to the Cabana for sunscreen, we made for the boat. Our plan was a short trip to one of the lodge trails that can only be reached by water.

On the way down river a juvenile Rufescent Tiger-Heron was foraging on the river bank. I really like tiger-herons and this one completed the set! Other river birds included Striated Heron, Green Ibis, Anhinga and Neo-tropical Cormorant. Band-breasted and Whit-winged Swallows skimmed the surface. I commented to Martin that the White-winged Swallows reminded me of the flying fish we see on pelagic trips in the gulf.

We left the boat and started down the trail. There was major movement in the trees above us. Several large dark birds flew from tree to tree, Spix Guans. Brad started whistling the call of the Pavonine Quetzel, but got no response. He had been working on finding this bird ever since we arrived at Rio Azul. We did hear a Paradise Jacamar calling. We had already seen several, so we didn't work too hard to find it.

To be honest, birding was a little slow. We heard a lot more than we saw. Despite this, it was an enjoyable walk. Then things got very exciting. Brad spotted movement deep in a tangled thicket. A very large bird was displaying by raising its wings and quivering them. It was a Dark-winged Trumpeter. Trumpeters are notoriously shy and difficult to see. We froze and watched as a group of four or five walked through the thicket. My hands were trembling as I switched my camera to video and shot some brief footage. Here is the URL http://www.flickr.com/photos/sngcanary/3091955754/. As I said, my hands were shaking a bit, so its a little jittery! It was one of the biggest highlights of our trip.

AWe were still glowing when another very wanted bird showed up, a Flame-crested Manakin. I am very fond of manakins. They are tiny birds with great calls and wonderful lekking behavior. You might have seen the video clip of one the manakins "moon walking". The Flame-crested is particularly beautiful and has a very limited range. We also found Band-tailed, Red-headed, Snow-capped and Dwarf Tyrant-manakin. This little flurry of birds made the morning more than worthwhile.

We went back to the lodge for lunch and afterwards I learned an important lesson about siesta. Latin Americans know what they are doing taking them! Instead of resting I spent the middle part of the afternoon hiking around the lodge grounds photographing butterflies. I also found and photographed a Drab Water-tyrant. This was not exactly a flashy bird, but it's rather rare in that area, so I was pleased. That afternoon was particularly hot and muggy. I got back to the cabana just in time to leave to go back out with Brad. I paid for this later.

Brad took us down a trail behind the cabanas with stands of native bamboo. There are a number of birds that are bamboo specialists. The trail was not difficult at all, but I was hot, tired and a little dehydrated. Its easy to forget to drink when its humid and I had made this mistake, too. Despite my discomfort I was still enjoying the walk.

One of the first "major" birds we found was an adult Ornate Hawk-eagle. This is a gorgeous hawk with a black and white breast and an orange crested head. We had seen a Black-and-white Oranate Hawk-eagle on our last trip to Ecuador. I was really pleased to pick up this one! Unfortunately I saw it mostly in pieces as it moved in the tree above us, first the breast, then the head. Then it flew off, leaving us to look for more birds.

Rose-breasted Chats came into the top of a tree. They are a gorgeous pink, grey, black and white bird. They are rather hard to see, as they stick to the tops of the trees, but we were happy. We found another specialty bird of the area, a Large-headed Flatbill, a type of flycatcher. We finally came to a small creek, where we planned to wait for birds to come in to drink before they went to roost for the night.

I have some problems with my knees. I can walk all day, but standing still for any length of time is difficult if not down right painful. The humidity wasn't doing them any good, either. To see the things we hoped for at the creek, it was necessary to stand very still for a long period of time. With already being a bit down physically, I was struggling. Brad suggested we sit down. I laid my rain jacket down and tried settling in. This was in deep leaf litter where a lot of little life forms were dwelling quite happily without a large human sitting on them. Some of these life forms started objecting and I was not happy. I got a number of ant bites and I was not thrilled with some of the things crawling up my arms. I became more and more miserable. I think if I had felt more rested I would have been ok, but I wasn't. Martin could see that I wasn't well and insisted that we go back. I felt badly as I thought I was costing us birds, but it was the best decision.

We went back to the cabana. I took a cool shower and Martin went up to the lodge and got me some sparkling mineral water and a large chocolate bar. I laid down for a half hour or so until it was time for dinner. Its amazing how much better some good chocolate can make one feel! It was rather dark by the time we walked up to dinner. I almost walked into a Capybara who was standing on the trail. It scooted off, followed by another adult and two youngsters. As neat as it was to be so close to them, I did make a discovery; Capybaras stink!

Day List
Cinereous Tinamou
Brazilian Tinamou
Variegated Tinamou
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Greater Flamingo
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Green Ibis
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Ornate Hawk-Eagle
Black Caracara
Bat Falcon
Spix's Guan
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Sunbittern
Dark-winged Trumpeter
Ruddy Pigeon
Gray-fronted Dove
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Painted Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet
Kawall's Parrot
Red-fan Parrot
Squirrel Cuckoo
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl
Blackish Nightjar
Long-tailed Hermit
White-bearded Hermit
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
White-necked Jacobin
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Black-eared Fairy
White-tailed Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Paradise Jacamar
Pied Puffbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Channel-billed Toucan
Red-stained Woodpecker
Chestnut Woodpecker
Cream-colored Woodpecker
Long-tailed Woodcreeper
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Spix's Woodcreeper
Curve-billed Scythebill
Chestnut-throated Spinetail
Cinnamon-rumped Foliage-gleaner
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner
Short-billed Leaftosser
Plain Xenops
Sclater's Antwren
Long-winged Antwren
Dot-winged Antwren
Striated Antbird
Gray Antbird
White-browed Antbird
Black-faced Antbird
Thrush-like Antpitta
Screaming Piha
Band-tailed Manakin
Red-headed Manakin
Snow-capped Manakin
Flame-crested Manakin
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Forest Elaenia
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Large-headed Flatbill
White-crested Spadebill
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher
Euler's Flycatcher
Drab Water-Tyrant
Cinnamon Attila
Tropical Kingbird
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Tooth-billed Wren
Moustached Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Rose-breasted Chat
Red-billed Pied Tanager
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Palm Tanager
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Amazonian Oropendola

Brazil Day 9, Up we go!

Dawn came an hour earlier at Cristalino Lodge. For some reason they did not follow Daylight Savings Time like everyone else in Mato Grosso. So, breakfast was at 430AM! Yikes, I didn't remember signing up for that. Luckily the coffee was good and the chocolate cake was better. Even though the clock said it was only 500AM when we finished it was getting light.

One of the big draws at Cristalino is the canopy tower. Standing at just over 50 meters, it has three levels allowing birding in the mid level of the canopy, right at the tops of the trees and above almost all of the forest. Canopy towers allow looks at birds and animals that would be almost impossible to see from the forest floor. The only other canopy tower that I had experienced had been in Rio Salanche Ecuador, which wasn't nearly as tall, so I was excited to see what this one was like.

We hiked the mile to the tower in a light fog. As we approached the tower and I looked up to the top my excitement turned to apprehension. This was a very, very, very tall tower! There were 22 flights of 9 steps. The steps were more like rungs on a ladder, very narrow and steep. Brad and Martin were birding a bit at the base of the tower. I told them I was starting up, as I would be slow. I was pleasantly surprised that it was not as difficult as I thought. I made it to the first platform pretty quickly. Then I looked down. "How the heck was I going to get down from here?" I thought. I have some vertigo and am a complete klutz. I wondered how long one could live on top of a canopy tower!

Martin and Brad came up and we spent some time birding. We saw a few birds, but the fog was making things a bit slow. We started up to the second level. There we got my favorite bird of the day, Striolated Puffbird. Puffbirds are great birds, squat chubby little guys with stout bills. They tend to be a bit laid back, sitting without fidgeting, which is exactly what this one was doing. He was right below eye level and gave opportunity for great photos. Of course to get great photos you have to be a great photographer! I am not that person. But in case you want to see him, here is a video clip. http://www.flickr.com/photos/sngcanary/3093433595/ Oh, there was not an earthquake when I shot this, despite the appearance.

We finally left that area and made the final climb. There was still some fog, which cut down our viewing substantially. The positive thing about the fog was it kept the insects down. Brad had warned us that the top of the tower could get uncomfortable with many bees for some reason. We still did pick up a few birds. A male Spangled Cotinga, a spectacular sky blue bird with a bright purple throat perched on a snag. A Ringed Woodpecker, a much wanted bird, flew by. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulets worked through the tops of nearby trees. Tooth-billed Wrens were singing, atypically for wrens, in the canopy. It was not a bad place to be.

Finally the sky cleared, it got hotter and the bees showed up. The tower wasn't quite as comfortable. At that height, there is some sway. You have to move slowly and carefully, or it gets a little hairy. Despite that, we were still having a good time. When the sun is hot, the birds become quiet, which happened a little quicker than we would have hoped. We decided to start down, which was something that had been nagging me in the back of my head since I had reached the top. I knew I would be even slower, so I got a headstart. I had to back down, as my big size 11 feet didn't fit on the stairs!

Before heading back to the lodge, Brad took us to a clay lick, often visited by birds and mammals to obtain minerals in their diets. Its a good place to see Tapirs. Unfortunately, the Tapirs and even the birds, were snacking elsewhere. What was there, though, was a huge number of butterflies! The whole area was fluttering with sulphurs, long-wings, swallowtails and other beautiful bugs. Martin even picked up a few dragonflies.

It was getting close to lunch time, so we started the mile hike back. We picked up a number of antbirds. One that we heard, but never got a visual on, was a Ringed Ant Pipit. The call of this bird sounded like it was saying "I'm a Ringed ANT PIPIT!", at least to me. Another bird that we heard only was a specialty bird of the lodge, a Cryptic Forest Falcon. This bird was recently split from Barred Forest Falcon and has a microscopic range.

After lunch and siesta, we headed back onto the river. I really loved the river birding everytime we went out! Almost immediately I got a life bird, a Sungrebe. This was another bird that caught my imagination the first time I saw it in a tropical field guide, so I was really excited. (We were shocked to discover when we returned to the states that the first record of Sungrebe for the United States occured during our trip). We also got a really good look at a Sunbittern, much more satisfying than the glimpse we had the day before. A Razor-billed Currosow flushed off of the river bank and flew up into the canopy. We didn't get a huge number of birds, but the quality far out shined the quantity.

We stayed on the river until dusk. Spectacled Caiman and Yellow-spotted River Turtles slid off the banks as we passed. A Tawny-bellied Screech-owl called Long-nosed Bats flushed off of logs they were roosting on. We were ready for dinner when we got back to the lodge.

Day List
White-throated Tinamou
Variegated Tinamou
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Green Ibis
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Swallow-tailed Kite
Plumbeous Kite
White-browed Hawk
Laughing Falcon
Cryptic Forest-Falcon
Bat Falcon
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Razor-billed Curassow
Sungrebe
Sunbittern
Plumbeous Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Gray-fronted Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Crimson-bellied Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet
White-bellied Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl
Short-tailed Nighthawk
Gray-rumped Swift
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Blue-crowned Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
American Pygmy Kingfisher
Paradise Jacamar
Great Jacamar
White-necked Puffbird
Pied Puffbird
Striolated Puffbird
Swallow-wing
Black-girdled Barbet
Curl-crested Aracari
Channel-billed Toucan
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Red-stained Woodpecker
Scaly-breasted Woodpecker
Ringed Woodpecker
Plain-crowned Spinetail
Short-billed Leaftosser
Glossy Antshrike
Plain-winged Antshrike
White-flanked Antwren
Band-tailed Antwren
Thrush-like Antpitta
White-browed Purpletuft
Screaming Piha
Spangled Cotinga
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
Red-headed Manakin
Blue-backed Manakin
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Spotted Tody-Flycatcher
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
Ringed Antpipit
White-lored Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Gray Elaenia
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Large-headed Flatbill
White-crested Spadebill
Euler's Flycatcher
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Masked Tityra
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
Gray-chested Greenlet
Hauxwell's Thrush
Tooth-billed Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
Gray-breasted Martin
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Red-capped Cardinal
Bananaquit
Silver-beaked Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Bay-headed Tanager
Yellow-bellied Dacnis
Blue Dacnis
Blue-black Grassquit
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Amazonian Oropendola

Brazil Day 8, a Change in Atmosphere

Day eight found us making one last effort to get a good look at a Hyacinth Macaw. Right after breakfast, (by the way, one of the great things about Brazil is they consider it just fine to eat chocolate cake for breakfast) we piled into Carlo's truck and headed back to the ranches near the entrance to Rio Azul. We started at the spot where we had seen the macaws fly over on the way in to the lodge. We listened and scanned. Other macaws flew over, but no Hyacinths.

We drove a little way back towards the ranch, where we saw a Aplomado Falcon. Even more macaws passed us. There were several Burrowing Owls, a Red-breasted Blackbird and the ever present Grassland Sparrows. Brad sat up suddenly and said "Hyacinths!" We jumped out of the truck in time to see and hear the pair go by. They lit in a Brazil Nut Tree across the pasture from us. Carlo knows the owner of the ranch and said we could cross the fence. As we walked across the rough grass the macaws flew to a large dead snag and put on quite a show. There may have been a cavity in the tree. We were able to get a few pictures. None were great, but you can see what they are. Needless to say, we were really jazzed!

We drove back to the lodge and decided to try for the Plush-crested Jays one more time. We walked the entrance tract road, seeing even more hummingbirds than on our previous treks. A Rufous-throated Sapphire, one of the prettiest hummers of the trip, made an appearance. I also got a better look at a White-chinned Sapphire. They were very responsive to the pygmy owl tape. Tinamous were calling again. A Natterer's Antshrike skirted around us, finally giving decent looks. The best part was seeing several species of Manakins. Unfortunately we never did see the jays, despite bushwhacking deep into the brush. Its a bit hard to complain, though, after seeing Hyacinth Macaws.

We finished the morning in the clearing around the lodge. We were leaving after lunch and both of us felt a bit sad. We found the lodge, the family, the habitat, the birds, the butterflies and even the fish in the lagoon very pleasant indeed. The warmth that we felt there was something unique. Ivana, the matriarch of the family, cooked the most amazing meals and always glowed when we raved about them. Her desserts, in particular, were excellent. During our stay we had fresh fish from the river, really great beef cooked several ways, black beans and rice, lots of fresh fruit and vegetables and one of our favorite things, yucca, called manioc there. I know I gained at least five lbs.

After lunch we all lingered in the dining room, not really wanting to leave. Ivana brought us a little tupperware container with some homemade Brazil Nut Sweets. She told us through Brad that we could take them back to the states with us. (Don't tell her, but they didn't last 24 hours!) Carlo brought me a big soft ball size coconut looking thing. He explained through Brad that it was a Brazil nut. Now, I know what a Brazil nut is! I have eaten them all my life. This didn't look a thing like a Brazil nut. Then he brought out another one, but this one had the top sawed off. Inside, arranged like orange sections were what I think of us a Brazil nuts! I had no idea that they grew that way. The outside shell is so hard only one animal, the Agouti, a huge rodent, can open them.

Finally we got our luggage together, and piled it in the truck, covering it in plastic, as it looked like rain. We had a long very rough drive ahead of us to get to the departure point for Cristalino Lodge. The road from Alta Floresta is rough. The road to the Teles Pires River landing is even rougher. It was about a four and half hour slog, including a few birding stops.

Speaking of birding stops, there was a Grey-breasted Crake calling loudly in some high grass on the side of the road. We stopped and played a tape. The crake became totally silent. We waited a bit and decided to move on. Carlo started the truck and the crake immediately started in louder than ever. Carlo stopped the motor. The crake shut up. We had pretty much pin pointed where the bird was. Brad got out of the truck and said he would flush the bird. He had on shorts and the grass was a bit prickly. He started in and jumped up in the air. It is impossible to describe how he looked, but I wished I had my video camera on. The crake never showed.

The ride was not without incident. We were bumping along a rutted clay road, when as we were coming into a sharp curve, a man on a motor bike came around from the opposite direction, heading straight for us. Carlo dodged, as did the biker. I was certain we were going to have a head on. The biker did miss us, but unfortunately took a spill in the ditch. We stopped and Carlo and Brad ran back to help him. Luckily he was not injured. After a bit of work they got the bike started and we all headed on our way. It could have had a very bad ending.

After crossing on the ferry again, we finally reached the river landing. The only way to get to Cristalino Lodge is by river. Fransisco, one of the pilots from the lodge, was there to meet us. We loaded all of our gear on the boat, bid very fond farewells to Carlo and set off for the lodge. It was a bit more pleasant than being jostled half to death on the rutted clay roads.

When we got into the main river channel we heard something shrieking like a banshee. "What the heck is that?" I yelled over the motor. Francisco yelled back "Giant Otters!" and he started shrieking back at them. There were three or four of the huge otters swimming near an island in the center of the river. They called back. I was totally blown away. First of all, this was one of my most wanted mammals. Second I had no idea otters could make those blood curdling noises. I guess I imagined them making little snuffly sounds or something.

We skimmed the shore of another island and Brad called in Amazonian Tyrranulet. A Capped Heron was feeding on one bank. As we passed a sand bar we got a great look at a Pied Lapwing. A Sun Bittern flew up under some heavy branches. Unfortunately I got a very poor look at it. Brad said we should be able to find another on the river during our stay. The trip up river took about a half hour. I kind of hated for it to end.

We passed the beautiful swimming dock of the lodge, and pulled up on the bank. Martin, Brad and I disembarked and headed up towards the lodge. One of the guides at the lodge packed our gear on the trailer of a little tractor and took it to our cabana. Just as we reached the clearing Brad heard a Long-billed Woodcreeper give its mournful call. We were able to get on it fairly quickly. Its an amazing looking brown bird with a HUGE long bill. It was hard to figure out how he ate with it. The bar tender came out and handed us some luscious fruit drinks, garnished with mimosas. I could see that despite the jungle, this was a very civilized place.

Our cabana was located in the third clearing. We had been given one of the upgraded rooms and it was beautiful! It was screened in with linen roman curtains for privacy. The ceiling was vaulted with a huge fan. The bathroom had a long teak counter top with a very modern raised bowl sink. The bath amenities were presented on a huge banana leaf. The absolute best part of the room was the shower. There was an indoor shower with glass doors that opened on to a patio with a wooden screening fence. On the patio was an outdoor shower. It all seemed very decadent! The water was solar heated, so it was always quite hot. Martin said the shower was better than any he had ever used, even in four star hotels.

We went up to dinner and met the other people staying at the lodge. Only one was a birder, a very nice English fellow who did not want to talk birds. His theory was if someone saw something the other person wanted it might cause jealousy. It was a bit different than other birders we know, but we abided by his rule. The other guests were from Germany and Sweden. An ex-pat American was there working as a translator for Roger, the Brit. Almost all of the staff only speaks Portuguese. The dinner was very good. I bought a bottle of Brazilian wine and shared some with Brad. It was a great end of the day. Oh, one more thing, the Brazilian wine was not the best South American wine I have drank. Next time I will stick with Argentinian or Chilean!

Day List
Gray Tinamou
Cinereous Tinamou
Brazilian Tinamou
Least Grebe
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Muscovy Duck
Capped Heron
Cattle Egret
Striated Heron
Green Ibis
Black Vulture
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Pearl Kite
Great Black-Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Red-throated Caracara
Laughing Falcon
American Kestrel
Aplomado Falcon
Bat Falcon
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Gray-breasted Crake
Sunbittern
Wattled Jacana
Solitary Sandpiper
Spotted Sandpiper
Pied Lapwing
Southern Lapwing
Picazuro Pigeon
Scaled Dove
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Hyacinth Macaw
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Red-and-green Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Red-bellied Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Painted Parakeet
Golden-winged Parakeet
White-bellied Parrot
Orange-cheeked Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Yellow-crowned Parrot
Orange-winged Parrot
Squirrel Cuckoo
Black-bellied Cuckoo
Little Cuckoo
Smooth-billed Ani
Guira Cuckoo
Striped Cuckoo
Burrowing Owl
Blackish Nightjar
Short-tailed Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Black-throated Mango
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Rufous-throated Sapphire
White-chinned Sapphire
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Versicolored Emerald
Long-billed Starthroat
Amethyst Woodstar
White-tailed Trogon
Ringed Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Blue-crowned Motmot
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Paradise Jacamar
Brown-banded Puffbird
Pied Puffbird
Collared Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Black-girdled Barbet
Channel-billed Toucan
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Red-stained Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Lineated Woodcreeper
Pale-breasted Spinetail
Plain-crowned Spinetail
Pygmy Antwren
Rufous-winged Antwren
White-fringed Antwren
Screaming Piha
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
White-crowned Manakin
Blue-backed Manakin
Fiery-capped Manakin
Black Manakin
Flame-crested Manakin
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Amazonian Tyrannulet
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher
Grayish Mourner
Tropical Kingbird
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Lesser Kiskadee
Great Kiskadee
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Gray-chested Greenlet
Black-capped Donacobius
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Masked Yellowthroat
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Grassland Sparrow
Red-capped Cardinal
Bananaquit
Black-faced Tanager
White-lined Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Turquoise Tanager
Blue Dacnis
Blue-black Grassquit
Buff-throated Saltator
Crested Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Red-rumped Cacique
Red-breasted Blackbird
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch

Brazil Day 7, Ayeeeee! Marabunta!!!!

Day seven revealed a phenomenon I had hoped to see on our earlier trips to the tropics, but had not. Its one of the most misunderstood happenings in the tropics. Those of you who remember the old Charlton Heston movie, The Naked Jungle will be familiar with the cry "Marabunta!" This movie did a lot to spread the misunderstanding. The phenomenon that I am speaking of? Army ant swarms.

Army ants have a very structured society. The colony will set up bivouacs in a hollow log, a hole or other similar shelter. They will feed in the area and settle in for a while. Then the entire colony will go on a raid. They pack up the queen, larva and eggs and spread out in a huge wedge, consuming other insects in their path. These wedges pass through forests mostly, but they can come across lawns and even into houses. What they do not do is consume heavy set men in boats, like in the movie. People in the Amazon actually welcome them, as they will clean out undesirable insects.

So, why would a birder want to see army ants? The answer is birds! There are a group of birds who follow the army ant raids. They are called antbirds, antwrens, antshrikes, antpittas, etc. So, these birds must eat the ants, right? That is another misconception. They actually do not eat the ants, but feed on the fleeing insects and other invertabrates. Some of these birds are very dependant on the ants and without a swarm they are almost impossible to see. It can be quite a show! Birders in the tropics always hope for an ant swarm.

We were walking a path at Rio Azul when we noticed some army ants running across a clearing. Birds started popping up. It was difficult to keep up with them. Brad was calling out birds, Martin and I were seeing other birds. I said "What bird has a brown back and a black head?" Brad was preoccupied for a moment, then his head shot up and he said "Bare-eyed Antbird!" This was another major goal bird. We had thought that we would have the best chance at Cristalino, but here it was. We relocated it and got decent looks. Unfortunately we were unable to get photos. Its a great looking bird with a whopping great white-eye ring.

We had a number of other antbirds, including Black-spotted Bare-eye, Black-faced Antbird, Spot-winged Antbird, Grey Antwren and Scale-backed Antbird. One bird which rivaled the Bare-eyed Antbird was the Chestnut-belted Gnatwren. I was also pleased to get was Long-billed Gnatwren. By the way, army ant bites do hurt like crazy! I was trying to video tape some on a log and got too close. That being said, our fire ants are worse.

We left the swarm to go have lunch and supposedly siesta. Instead I spent most of the rest time photographing the incredible butterflies around the lodge. I am still processing photos, but I have posted some of my pictures. This link is for the butterfly set.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sngcanary/sets/72157610489809135/
I am still adding pictures to the set, so check back for more later.

We returned to the entrance tract in the late afternoon. It was a bit slower, but we still saw a good number of hummingbirds. This area had some nice blooming plants. Black-throated Mangoes were particularly common. We saw Grey-breasted Sabre-wings, White-chinned Sapphires, Long-billed Starthroats, Green-tailed Goldenthroats and many Fork-tailed Woodnymphs. South American hummingbirds have some of the best names.

Every time we walked the entrance tract we would hear the deep unmistakable cries of several different tinamous. We heard five different species at Rio Azul, some of them quite close. We never saw a single one. Its a frustrating family. The weird thing is they are big birds! Its amazing that they are so invisible.

As the day dwindled macaws and parrots started flying over. We had a great day with them with five species of macaws and eight species of other parrots and parakeets. I never quit catching my breath when I saw Scarlet Macaws fly across the sky. I also loved the White-bellied Parrots, cute little guys with brilliant yellow heads, bright green backs and, of course, white bellies. Seeing all of these brilliant birds was a great way to end the day. By the way, the food was still great! (Someone asked me to write about the food, I will in a later post)

Day List
Gray Tinamou
White-throated Tinamou
Cinereous Tinamou
Brazilian Tinamou
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Roadside Hawk
Ornate Hawk-Eagle
Barred Forest-Falcon
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Red-and-green Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Red-bellied Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
White-bellied Parrot
Vulturine Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Orange-winged Parrot
Squirrel Cuckoo
Black-bellied Cuckoo
Short-tailed Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
Black-throated Mango
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
White-chinned Sapphire
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Long-billed Starthroat
Green Kingfisher
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Paradise Jacamar
Brown-banded Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Black-girdled Barbet
Channel-billed Toucan
Bar-breasted Piculet
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Red-billed Woodcreeper
Barred Woodcreeper
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Spix's Woodcreeper
Lineated Woodcreeper
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner
Plain Xenops
Fasciated Antshrike
Chestnut-backed Antshrike
Plain-winged Antshrike
Spot-winged Antshrike
Saturnine Antshrike
Cinereous Antshrike
Pygmy Antwren
White-eyed Antwren
Gray Antwren
Rufous-winged Antwren
Gray Antbird
White-browed Antbird
Black-faced Antbird
Warbling Antbird
Yellow-browed Antbird
Spot-winged Antbird
Bare-eyed Antbird
Scale-backed Antbird
Black-spotted Bare-eye
Chestnut-belted Gnateater
Screaming Piha
Red-headed Manakin
Fiery-capped Manakin
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Sepia-capped Flycatcher
White-lored Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Long-tailed Tyrant
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Dusky-capped Greenlet
Long-billed Gnatwren
Yellow-backed Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Green-and-gold Tanager
Purple Honeycreeper
Buff-throated Saltator
Amazonian Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique

Brazil Day 6, on the Rio Azul

Day six started with our first boating excursion of our trip. We had a couple of specific targets, a prehistoric relic for me and a hummingbird for Martin (oh, and me, too!) Our pilot, Beira, got us situated in a small motor boat and took off up river. Both of our target birds could be found along the river. We then planned to walk a ranch road up river from the lodge. It was a beautiful morning. I think these birding boat trips were my favorite part of our time in Brazil.

The first life bird of the day for me was a Green Ibis, flying up into the trees along the bank. Anhingas and Neotropic Cormorants flew up stream ahead of us. We heard a huge racket of rustling tree banches and howls. A troop of Spider Monkeys were threatening us from the tops of the trees. I looked into the face of one of the monkeys and could see the anger in his eyes. I imagined all of them saying "We sure showed them!" after we moved up stream.

Shortly after our monkey encounter we came across my goal bird of the day. Brad spotted an Hoatzin flitting shyly in the leaves. We didn't get very good looks at all. Then Beira said to Brad in Portuguese, "What about those Hoatzin's over there?" A good size flock was in clear view on the other bank! Hoatzins are a truly odd bird. The young birds have claws on their wings that they use to climb trees, reminiscent of Archaeopteryx. They look like a "missing link" with tiny heads with shaggy crests, rather messy feathers and an odd reptilian attitude. When the young birds learn to fly the claws dwindle. Martin had seen Hoatzin in Ecuador when he visted the Amazon basin there, pre-Sheridan.

I was still glowing from our encounter when we came across Martin's big target bird, Crimson Topaz. This is one of the largest hummingbirds in the world, a spectacular brilliant red and green bird. I remember the first time I looked at the hummingbird plates in the Birds of Ecuador I thought "OH MAN! I have to see this bird!" There is less than a handful of records from the Amazon area of Ecuador. Brad discovered that these hummers were along the river on his first visit to Rio Azul. It caused great excitement at the time. Heck, I am still excited! We had a beautiful male, possibly two. Unfortunately the tail streamers that are present in full breeding plumage were not on the bird, but we took it anyway. I took absolutely the worst photos in the world of it. Martin's are a bit better.

We landed at the ranch road and disembarked to so some birding. It was a bit difficult to concentrate on the birds as the butterflies were dazzling. I ended up taking more photos of butterflies than looking at birds! Despite the distraction, we did pick up Manu Antbird, Dusky-tailed Flatbill and a number of antbirds. On our way back to the boat we saw an old friend from home, an Eastern Wood-pewee. Its always amazing to see the birds we get here in South America. Its a reminder of just how far these birds go.

We headed back to the lodge for another great lunch, enjoying the river just as much on the way back. After lunch, when we were supposed to be siestaing, Martin and I both ended up looking for bugs, dragonflies mostly for him, and butteflies for me. I put out more of my butterfly bait and it was bringing in the bugs. I joked that Morphos and Owls are complete lushes, as they were always feeding. Beer is great on a hot afternoon, evening when mixed with bananas.

Later in the afternoon we walked down another trail to a wonderful deck built over a crystal clear lagoon off of the river. The water is so clear we could see a sting ray, puffer fish, dog fish and other fish swimming right below us. Carlo, the owner had told Brad that he would regularly see one of our main target birds, Bald Parrots, at about 5:00 PM. This unusual bare headed parrot was recently split from Vulturine Parrot. It was another great discovery that Brad made on his first visit. Its not the prettiest parrot, by far, but a really unique bird. At about 10 minutes to 5 we scored! A flock flew over giving us decent looks.

We then went up to the entrance road and birded there again, hoping for the Plush-crested Jay. Again we had no luck, but did stumble into a nice mixed flock. I have a particular love for tangaras, so I was really happy to get Opal-rumped Tanager, a new one for me. We also had Green-and-gold Tanager and Turquoise Tanager, both really spectacular birds. As it got dark we headed back for dinner. Did I mention that the food was really good?

Day List
Gray Tinamou
Great Tinamou
White-throated Tinamou
Cinereous Tinamou
Brazilian Tinamou
Neotropic Cormorant
Anhinga
Striated Heron
Green Ibis
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Osprey
Swallow-tailed Kite
White-browed Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Laughing Falcon
Bat Falcon
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Razor-billed Curassow
Ruddy Pigeon
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Red-and-green Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Red-bellied Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Painted Parakeet
Dusky-billed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Parakeet
White-bellied Parrot
Bald Parrot
Blue-headed Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Red-fan Parrot
Squirrel Cuckoo
Hoatzin
White-collared Swift
Short-tailed Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Gray-breasted Sabrewing
White-necked Jacobin
Black-throated Mango
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Crimson Topaz
White-tailed Trogon
Collared Trogon
Amazon Kingfisher
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Blue-cheeked Jacamar
Paradise Jacamar
Pied Puffbird
Collared Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Black-girdled Barbet
Lettered Aracari
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Channel-billed Toucan
Bar-breasted Piculet
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Golden-green Woodpecker
Chestnut Woodpecker
Ringed Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Red-billed Woodcreeper
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner
Plain Xenops
Fasciated Antshrike
Glossy Antshrike
Chestnut-backed Antshrike
Plain-winged Antshrike
Amazonian Antshrike
Pygmy Antwren
Rufous-winged Antwren
Striated Antbird
Gray Antbird
Blackish Antbird
Manu Antbird
White-backed Fire-eye
Black-faced Antbird
Yellow-browed Antbird
Silvered Antbird
Black-throated Antbird
Black-faced Antthrush
Variegated Antpitta
Thrush-like Antpitta
White-browed Purpletuft
Screaming Piha
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
Red-headed Manakin
Fiery-capped Manakin
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Snethlage's Tody-Tyrant
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
White-lored Tyrannulet
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Forest Elaenia
Gray Elaenia
Dusky-tailed Flatbill
Gray-crowned Flycatcher
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Eastern Wood-Pewee
Long-tailed Tyrant
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Dusky-chested Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Great Kiskadee
Chestnut-crowned Becard
Masked Tityra
Black-crowned Tityra
Plush-crested Jay
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Gray-chested Greenlet
Dusky-capped Greenlet
Hauxwell's Thrush
Thrush-like Wren
Moustached Wren
Buff-breasted Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
Gray-breasted Martin
White-banded Swallow
White-thighed Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Red-capped Cardinal
Bananaquit
Yellow-backed Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Turquoise Tanager
Paradise Tanager
Green-and-gold Tanager
Opal-rumped Tanager
Black-faced Dacnis
Purple Honeycreeper
Buff-throated Saltator
Amazonian Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Epaulet Oriole

Brazil Day 5, Rio Azul

Pousada Rio Azul was to be our home base for four nights. Set on the Rio Azul just across the border from Mato Grosso in the state of Para, this fishing lodge has recently proved to be a cracker jack birding spot. The lodge sits in a clearing surrounded by good forest, though not as large a tract as Cristalino Lodge, our next destination. It has a white sand campina (stunted forest) along the entrance tract, which contains some species of birds not found in the canopy forest.

We started the day birding the campina, hoping for another species of Jay, the Plush-crested Jay. Unfortunately that was not to be. We did hear them calling briefly, but never got a look. We soon forgot our disappointment with the jay when we spotted one of our other target birds, Red-fanned Parrots. These are a very unusual parrot with a large ruff around the neck. A flock flew in and we got great looks at the group feeding. Many macaws were flying over. We had incredible looks at a Spotted Puffbird, a real looker!

Hummingbirds were zipping around everywhere. The first of many Black-throated Mangos made an appearance, along with Versicolored Emerald, White-throated Sapphire, Green-tailed Goldenthroat and Long-billed Starthroat. My personal favorite that day was an Amethyst Woodstar. Woodstars are very tiny hummingbirds that are bumble bee mimics. They don't really look like bumble bees, but they move like them. This allows them to sneak by larger hummingbirds who are guarding flowers.

After a fantastic lunch (I could rave for paragraphs about the food at Rio Azul) I made a batch of butterfly bait. This concoction of over ripe bananas, beer and molasses is guarenteed to bring in butterflies, particularly large tropical species like morphos and owl. Martin and I divided it up and spread it around the edges of the clearing with great results. Within five minutes there were several huge bugs feeding on it. If you look at my photo page you can see some of these great insects, www.flickr.com/sngcanary. We spent most of our post lunch "siesta" time photographing butterflies, instead of resting!

Later in the afternoon we walked through the forest down to the river. White-banded Swallows, which I think is the prettiest of the swallows that I have seen, skimmed over the water. A Green-and-rufous Kingfisher was working a small clear lagoon off of the main channel. An observation deck was on the other side of the lagoon which we planned on birding from later in the visit.

We then returned to the lodge and drove back to where we had seen the Hyacinth Macaws the night before, hoping for a better look. A small lake with trees surrounding it was down the hill from the main road. We drove down and parked. The macaws come into this area to roost at dusk. The sun was still quite high in the sky, so we walked the road. Amazonian Oropendalas were doing flips accompanied by their crazy mechanical calls. The trees were heavy with their pendelous nests. Carlo, the owner of the lodge, pointed down at the muddy road. There was a set of large cat paw prints. A Jaguar had walked through recently. We really wanted to see a Jaguar, but the owner of those paws was long gone.

We got back to the lake and started our Hyacinth vigil. Large numbers of large and small macaws flew in and even more flew by. We had great looks at Scarlets, Blue-and-yellows, Red-and-green, Chestnut-fronted and Red-bellied. A group of Red-bellieds landed right in front of me, preening and playing. It was a great way to spend the early evening. Unfortunately the star was a no show. We did hear a distant Hyacinth calling, but we never had a sighting. Despite this we were quite happy and throughly enjoyed the evening meal.
Day List
Gray Tinamou
Great Tinamou
White-throated Tinamou
Brazilian Tinamou
Least Grebe
Muscovy Duck
Brazilian Teal
Great Egret
Striated Heron
Black Vulture
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
King Vulture
Pearl Kite
White-tailed Kite
Gray Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Red-throated Caracara
Barred Forest-Falcon
American Kestrel
Rusty-margined Guan
Red-throated Piping-Guan
Gray-breasted Crake
Ash-throated Crake
Solitary Sandpiper
Southern Lapwing
Picazuro Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Red-and-green Macaw
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Red-bellied Macaw
White-eyed Parakeet
Painted Parakeet
Golden-winged Parakeet
Vulturine Parrot
Kawall's Parrot
Yellow-crowned Parrot
Orange-winged Parrot
Mealy Parrot
Red-fan Parrot
Smooth-billed Ani
Guira Cuckoo
Striped Cuckoo
Barn Owl
Burrowing Owl
Common Nighthawk
Gray-rumped Swift
Pale-rumped Swift
Short-tailed Swift
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Black-throated Mango
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
White-chinned Sapphire
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Versicolored Emerald
Long-billed Starthroat
Amethyst Woodstar
Black-tailed Trogon
White-tailed Trogon
Collared Trogon
Amazon Kingfisher
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Blue-crowned Motmot
Blue-cheeked Jacamar
Spotted Puffbird
Black-fronted Nunbird
Swallow-wing
Black-girdled Barbet
Red-necked Aracari
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Gould's Toucanet
Channel-billed Toucan
Bar-breasted Piculet
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Scaly-breasted Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Red-billed Woodcreeper
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Striped Woodcreeper
Lineated Woodcreeper
Pale-breasted Spinetail
Glossy Antshrike
Spot-winged Antshrike
Streaked Antwren
Dot-winged Antwren
White-fringed Antwren
Manu Antbird
White-backed Fire-eye
Warbling Antbird
Black-throated Antbird
Black-faced Antthrush
White-browed Purpletuft
Screaming Piha
Spangled Cotinga
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
Fiery-capped Manakin
Forest Elaenia
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher
Grayish Mourner
Short-crested Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Lesser Kiskadee
Great Kiskadee
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Masked Tityra
Plush-crested Jay
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Gray-chested Greenlet
Black-billed Thrush
Lawrence's Thrush
Black-capped Donacobius
Thrush-like Wren
Moustached Wren
House Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
White-winged Swallow
Gray-breasted Martin
White-banded Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Grassland Sparrow
Bananaquit
White-lined Tanager
Silver-beaked Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
White-lored Euphonia
Rufous-bellied Euphonia
Turquoise Tanager
Blue-necked Tanager
Black-faced Dacnis
Short-billed Honeycreeper
Blue-black Grassquit
Lined Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Buff-throated Saltator
Amazonian Oropendola
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Epaulet Oriole
Giant Cowbird